Santa Margherita to Portofino
Planning to travel from Santa Margherita to Portofino—and maybe even beyond the Liguria Coast? We recently spent time exploring this stunning stretch of the Ligurian coast with friends, Sharon and Frank, hopping between Santa Margherita, Portofino, San Fruttuoso, and Camogli. But ferry routes here can be a little tricky. We thought we had bought tickets from Santa Margherita to Camogli, only to find out that we had to stop in San Fruttuoso and purchase a separate ticket. In this post, we’re sharing what we loved about each town—and our best ferry tips to help you plan smarter.
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A Picture-Perfect Slice of Liguria
There’s something special about this stretch of the Ligurian coast. Santa Margherita, Portofino, and Camogli each bring something different to the table—but hopping between them by ferry? That’s part of the fun… until it gets confusing.
We spent a few days exploring these towns and thought we had the ferry system figured out. Spoiler: we didn’t. What looked like a simple ride from Santa Margherita to Camogli turned into a surprise layover in San Fruttuoso and an unexpected second ticket.
That said, these towns are absolutely worth the trip. Here’s what makes each one special, plus everything you need to know before stepping on a ferry.
Santa Margherita: Laid-back Charm with a Touch of Elegance
This town was a great place to start. It’s got a calm, local feel with just the right touch of upscale. With our friends, Sharon and Frank, we stayed at the LHP Hotel Santa Margherita Palace & SPA, a five-star hotel. We don’t usually stay in such a luxurious hotel, but it was at the end of the off-season, and we got a screaming deal. A heads up… the spa was excellent and we got a fantastic neck and shoulder massage. Gary and I were toast after that! But the Aperol Spritzes were a whopping €18 each to sit and enjoy in the front garden! Eeeeks!
Things we enjoyed:
- Walking the palm-lined promenade along the harbor
- Stopping by the marina and checking out all the yachts at sunset
- Visiting the Basilica di Santa Margherita, a grand Baroque church just off the main street
- Finding a spot for aperitivo and people-watching
- It’s easy to get around, and the ferry and bus connections make it a smart base if you want to visit the surrounding towns without switching hotels.
Portofino: Tiny, Glamorous, and Expensive
Yes, it’s as postcard-perfect as it looks in photographs. Portofino is small—really small—but it’s gorgeous and makes a great few hour visit.
What to do:
- Walk up to Castello Brown for sweeping views of the coastline
- Visit San Giorgio Church and its scenic overlook
- Follow the path to the Portofino Lighthouse (Faro di Portofino) for a breezy walk and a little café at the top
- Enjoy a gelato or drink by the harbor and just soak it all in
- It’s not a town full of big attractions—it’s more about the vibe, the views, and the beauty. Even if you’re not into the designer shops, it’s worth the stop.
Camogli: The Colorful Underdog
We stopped at Camogli on the advice of friends. It was charming, but… it was packed as there was a fish festival going on. Big mistake. It would probably be so different with fewer people. We didn’t wait in line for the fish; we found a restaurant, had lunch, and left. However, don’t let me discourage you; the town was lovely and worth visiting. I don’t think it was the right time for us to explore.,
Don’t miss:
- Wandering the narrow streets and browsing the little shops
- Visiting the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta, right on the water
- Walking out on the harbor wall for great views back toward town
- Grabbing some local focaccia (you’ll smell it before you see it)
The Ferry Situation: What We Learned (So You Don’t Have To)
Let’s talk ferries. They’re a great way to see the coast from the water—but not as straightforward as we expected.
We assumed we could hop on a ferry in Santa Margherita and cruise directly to Camogli. We checked with the woman in the little hut that sells the tickets the night before, and she assured us that’s what we could do. She must have misunderstood us. That’s not how it works. What happened? A stop in San Fruttuoso… and then the surprise: we had to get off and buy a second ticket for the final leg to Camogli. It wasn’t the end of the world, but I think our ticket price to Portofino would have been less expensive than our purchase to Camogli (or what we thought was the whole ride.)
Ferry Connections: What You Need to Know
There is no direct ferry from Santa Margherita to Camogli. All routes between the two stop in San Fruttuoso, and you’ll need to change boats there and buy a second ticket. Here’s a breakdown of the ferry lines:
Route Segment Line / Service Notes
What this means:
To get from Santa Margherita to Camogli, you must:
- Take Line 1 to San Fruttuoso
- Disembark and buy a new ticket
- Catch the next ferry to Camogli (Golfo Paradiso Blue Line)
Important Tips for the Ferry
You’ll notice something special as you stroll through Santa Margherita and Portofino—buildings that seem to have ornate balconies, carved stone frames, or elaborate shutters. Look a little closer, and you’ll realize they’re not real at all. This is trompe l’oeil, a traditional Ligurian art form that literally means “trick the eye.” Artists paint these decorative details directly onto building facades to mimic three-dimensional architecture, and the effect is surprisingly convincing. It’s a clever and beautiful way locals have added character to otherwise simple buildings for centuries, blending art and architecture in a uniquely Ligurian way. Keep your eyes up—you’ll spot all sorts of playful illusions hiding in plain sight.
Santa Margherita to Portofino Final Thoughts
These towns each have their own personality—elegant Santa Margherita, polished Portofino, and laid-back Camogli—and seeing them by ferry adds to the experience (even with the ticket hiccup).
Just make sure you know what you’re signing up for with the ferry routes. If you plan ahead, it’s smooth sailing. If not… well, you might find yourself scrambling for a second ticket like we did. But hey—those little detours often make for the best travel stories.
Have you visited these Ligurian towns? Let us know—we’d love to hear what you loved most!
That was a fun trip, all towns were beautiful in their own unique way and staying in Santa Margherita was the right choice. The trompe l’oeil was so unique, so glad you zero’ed in on pointing that out, there was so much of it and it varied so much from building to building in the details. And super fun ferry rides.
This trip was lovely- primarily because of traveling with the two of you! Okay, the towns were terrific too. Thanks for letting us tag along on your trip. We created some amazing memories together. Very happy you liked the post.
We started out in Camogli, took the ferry to San Fruttuoso, stayed two nights and then the ferry back to Camogli. We hiked to Portofino and back from San Fruttuoso. It was a fabulous hike, reminiscent of Cinque Terre without the crowds. Also, the snorkeling is supposed to be fabulous in San Fruttuoso. There is a Christ the Redeemer statue sunken in the bay that you can see via glass bottom boat or snorkeling. We were off season, though, and the waves were reminiscent of Vistory at Sea, so couldn’t see it for ourselves. The monastery was interesting. Also, the ferry schedule was restricted due to the high seas. One note – the hike from San Fruttuoso to Camogli is considered difficult, and I don’t recommend it. It was a great area to explore, though!
I can’t thank you enough, Dana, for the excellent information! Great to know- and for you to say a hike is challenging… readers beware. It really must be! Thanks so much, Dana, for your comment and additional information! So appreciate you taking the time to post!
Another great blog post (even if I am a bit late reading it.). All of those towns truly are beautiful and are wonderful places to visit from Lucca. A little tidbit I don’t think I’ve shared with you… My family is distantly related to the Trebino clock and bell family based in Uscio. They are official clockmakers to the Vatican, and many towns in Liguria have clocks with the Trebino name on them, including the basilica in Camogli and a clock tower in Portofino. We recently learned that the bells in the Torre delle Ore in Lucca are unlabeled Trebino bells, as is the clock in Palazzo Pretorio.
Lou – WOW! Such amazing information – I think your story is so interesting- I’m betting others will too! Thanks so much for sharing!