The Luminara of San Ranieri Festival in Pisa is an event like few others. Every June 16th at dusk, Pisa dims the lights and lets the candles take over. More than 70,000 of them, to be exact. Carefully placed along the riverbanks, they light up historic palaces, bridges, towers, and churches in honor of the city’s patron saint.
This isn’t just a tradition—it’s an experience. And it only happens once a year. This isn’t a tourist show. It’s a beloved local tradition that’s both peaceful and profoundly moving. If you’re planning a summer visit to Tuscany, try to be in Pisa for this one evening. It’s unforgettable.
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Firsthand Information
With our friends Susan and Ed from Phoenix, we finally attended this event. Every June 16th, we seemed to always have something scheduled. So we made an afternoon of it. They had not seen the Leaning Tower, so we stopped there first, of course. During my research, I came across information on the internet stating that floating candles were released into the Arno and slowly drift downstream, their reflections shimmering in the darkness. FALSE. I also was under the impression that boats lit up with lights would precede the fireworks explosion. Again, FALSE. Arriving in Pisa early and having dinner was probably not the best approach for people of our age to attend this event. Stay with me for more…
What Is the Luminara of San Ranieri?
The Luminara kicks off the feast day of San Ranieri, Pisa’s patron saint. While his official feast is June 17, the candlelight celebration takes place the night before—on June 16.
At dusk, the city starts switching off public and private lights. That’s when the magic happens. Tens of thousands of candles are lit and placed in white-painted wooden frames—locals call them biancherie—that trace the architecture along the Lungarni, the roads running along the Arno River.
The effect is stunning. The city glows in soft amber light. The Leaning Tower of Pisa is also illuminated, but with oil lamps instead of candles—just one of many details that make the night feel so timeless and special.
A Look Back at the Tradition
This beautiful event has deep roots. It all started on March 25, 1688, when the urn containing the body of San Ranieri was moved into a chapel in Pisa’s cathedral. That ceremony sparked a massive city celebration—fireworks, processions, and yes, lights.
Over the years, lighting the city with oil lamps became a regular way to mark important events. Eventually, the practice became tied specifically to San Ranieri and officially earned the name Luminaria in the 1800s.
Today, the Luminara of San Ranieri Festival in Pisa draws crowds from all over the world—but it’s still very much a local celebration, and that’s what makes it feel so authentic.
What to Expect on the Night of the Festival
In the late afternoon, you’ll see teams of workers lighting candles one by one. It’s awesome to watch. As the sun sets, the artificial lights go off and the candles begin to glow. You’ll feel the shift in the air—it’s calm, quiet, and full of anticipation. Locals and visitors walk along the Lungarni, soaking it all in.
The night wraps up with a big fireworks show over the Arno. The reflections in the water, paired with the candlelight—it’s a full-on wow moment. There’s no loud music or chaos. It’s peaceful, moving, and full of heart. And best of all? It’s free.
Back to Our Experience
I’m sure that if your age falls within the 20-40 year old category, you can stand for quite some time without your back complaining. Not in our case. We finished dinner at about 7:45 pm and headed to find a spot along the river. By then, it was already packed. Young adults and families were all lined up, sitting on top of the 5-foot wall, staking their claim to their spot. Many of them had pizza boxes, indicating that they had also eaten dinner there. Hoisting ourselves up on the wall was not an option. We walked to the Ponte della Fortezza and found a place along the railing. By then, it was about 8:15ish.
Nothing happened between then and 11:00 pm, except that we were uncomfortable. There is nowhere to sit, so standing in one place to save your spot (and view) is the only option. People started gathering, and soon, spectators waiting for the event to start were five and six rows deep behind us. Waiting three hours was a bit excessive—I agree with my husband. Did we need to stand right up against the rail of the bridge for great views? No, but we did get spectacular photos.
Best Spots to Watch the Luminara
Want the best view? Head to the Lungarni between Ponte della Cittadella and Ponte della Fortezza. That stretch of river gives you a front-row seat to the action. Bridges also offer great perspectives:
- Ponte di Mezzo is central and popular—go early to claim a spot.
- Ponte Solferino and Ponte della Fortezza are a bit less crowded and just as beautiful.
Arrive by 7:00ish if you want a good view. Bring water, wear comfy shoes, and plan to stay until the fireworks. You won’t regret it. But know… you don’t have to see the river to enjoy the fireworks spectacle.
Pro Tips
In Conclusion
The Luminara of San Ranieri Festival in Pisa is one of those travel moments you’ll never forget. It’s not just about the candles or the fireworks. It’s the feeling of being part of something timeless and local. A real celebration of light, tradition, and community. Let us know if you’ve been and comment on your experience! We’d enjoy hearing your thoughts on this festival!
… And of course we’ve mentioned this festival in our Tuscany Treasures guidebook…
If you have received opportunity to attend a “Luminiscence” show in your area, don’t miss it. We had the opportunity to see it in Nice, France at the Notre Dame Basilica when we were there in April. I believe it Is a show that is traveling Europe. It is incredible. We happened upon an advertisement on our walk to the train station. I was able to obtain tickets and it turned out to be one of our favorite thngs we experienced during our 3 weeks in France. I received an email this week that the are ending their run in Nice this week. I haven’t checked the schedule to see where they go next. But if they show up in Tuscany, it is more than worth the ticket price.
Have a great summer.
Jackie Jones
We will keep our eyes out for it! Thanks, Jacky!